GREEN COVE SPRINGS – Do you ever look out into your yard and realize that some trees or shrubs you really like but wish they were somewhere else? Whether it is with a plant that grew from seed, got bigger than you anticipated, or is just not doing well where you planted it originally, transplanting can be an option to save the plant and place it in a better spot if done properly.

One thing to always remember with transplanting is that it will stress the tree and it is hard to keep a 100 percent success rate. Whenever you dig up a plant for transplanting, you are cutting off many of its feeder roots and the tree or shrub will most likely be at a higher risk of death than it would have been if left alone. With that said, try to always subscribe to “Right Plant, Right Place” in deciding what plants will work best in the spaces around your home and garden so that you will not have to move it in the future.

It is also worth noting that some species of plants simply do not respond well to having their roots damaged and being moved and that some in your landscape may be too large to handle. An arborist who is certified by the International Society of Arboriculture can be a good resource if you are unsure of whether a plant can be moved or are looking to hire a service to complete the work for you.

If you do need to transplant the specimen, timing can be everything. The cooler months in fall through winter, are often the best time to transplant when growth slows or goes dormant. This is due to the tree not losing as much water through their leaves this time of the year and the plant will not dry up as quickly as it would in the heat of the summer. This timing does vary based on the plant so it can helpful to check with your local UF/IFAS Extension Office for advice.

When transplanting, there are two main options, transplanting a root ball or using a plant with bare roots. Cutting a root ball, which is often known as ball and burlap, is often the best choice for many plants as it will retain roots and soils together, hopefully stopping the plant from drying out. With bare root, you would dig up the roots of the tree without regard of keeping soil together. This can make the plant lighter and easier to move but may not be as successful.

With both options, root pruning is recommended for specimens, which is the process of cutting a circular area around the tree with a spade around six months before you plan to move the plant. This will cause the roots of the tree to stay in a small area, leading to more roots near the main plant during transplanting. This cut is usually the same area as the eventual root ball and will depend on the size of the tree being moved. The bigger the root ball, the better but exact specifications for diameter and depth are available from your local UF/IFAS Extension Office.

When you are ready to dig, you would dig out and around about twice the size of the area that is air pruned and dig downward at an angle towards the eventual root ball. You would clear out the soil around your future root ball until the ball is deep enough and then you can cut underneath to sever the rest of the roots. In our area, the soil is often sandy so it can be difficult to form a nice root ball that will hold. Many people will then wrap this soil ball with burlap to keep it from falling apart during transport.

When moving the tree, you should have a hole of the proper depth, dug around two times the size of the root ball of the tree being transplanted. Place the tree in the center of the hole and orient it the way you like best along with making sure it will grow straight vertically in the future. Also make sure the area where the tree or shrub had previously met the ground is even or slightly above the level of surrounding ground. It is also best to mix composted manure or organic matter in with the soil you dug from the new hole and then you can fill around the tree when ready.

Digging and planting a bare root tree is very similar to one where you dig a soil ball except you do not attempt to save soil around the roots. You will still need a good amount of roots for the tree’s survival however. When planting the bare root tree, leave a small mound of soil in the middle of the new hole and spread the bare roots around it. Make sure the crown of the tree or shrub, which is the point where the roots meet the trunk is at or slightly above ground level. If you bury the crown, the tree is likely to have issues going forward.

Following digging, transplants can also be transported to another property or location but this can be stressful for the plant. Make sure to tarp or cover the foliage if it is moved in a vehicle and try to not drop or damage the root ball. If a good root ball was maintained and wrapped in burlap, trees and shrubs can also be kept out of the ground for a period of time. This can actually help the success rate of transplanting as it gives the plant a chance to grow some new roots before it gets placed in the new location.

Following planting, transplants need watering frequently, usually a couple of times per week, for the first few months of establishment. Allow the plant to get a lot of water but also to dry out some between applications. Larger transplants will require watering for a longer period of time. Mulching around the tree will also help hold moisture in the soil and can help with establishment.

Slow-release fertilizer can be applied to newly-planted trees as recommended on the label but soluble fertilizers should be avoided as they can burn the roots. Over time as the plant begins to grow new roots, it will require less and less work.

If you have any more questions about trees, any other landscape and garden topics, or need plant or pest materials identified, contact the University of Florida/IFAS Extension Office online at http://www.clay.ifas.ufl.edu, follow us on Facebook, or call by phone at (904) 284-6355.